The Art of the Vintage Picnic
Katherine Stolz Barber
The Vintage Kitchen
Twentieth century foodie, gourmand and all around good cook, James Beard declared that “picnicking is one of the supreme pleasures of outdoor life.” Indeed. No other dining experience seems quite so decadent. The fresh air, the natural setting, the creative food choices, the deliciously idle intentions. Picnics have a wonderful way of engaging all of our senses in such a fantastic way. It’s almost overwhelming.
Those first few moments at picnic’s start – when you are dizzy with the view and the weather and the notion of doing nothing but relaxing and reveling in food and friends – is satisfaction enough. But then a truckload of simple delights follow one right after another. There is that liberating sensation of kicking off shoes and wiggling bare toes in soft grass. The crisp, snapping action of the picnic blanket as it unfurls from containment, joyfully sailing on the breeze before floating to the ground. There is the laying out of the carefully wrapped food parcels and the first sip of a celebratory toast. The giddy laughter, the bird songs, the sound of leafy trees dancing on the breeze… suddenly you are aware of the musical vitality of nature and yourself in it.
On a picnic, the world shines newly bright with details mostly overlooked in the hustle bustle routine of everyday life. It is an activity that encourages you to stop and to breathe and to melt – into your surroundings, into your friends, into the food that makes up your lunch or your dinner or your breakfast time snack. Yes, picnics are a triumphant and pleasurable experience. And there’s no better season for them then right now. In today’s post, we will be discussing the art of of the vintage picnic – how it came to be, how it shaped us, and why we still need to celebrate it now. Highlighting a handful of old, but still very relevant recipes, this post also offers suggestions on how to build your own vintage picnic experience so that you too can succumb to the relaxing style of outdoor eating that our ancestors favored so long ago. It’s history in a most delicious form, unveiled, just as we are about to round the corner towards the 4th of July, the most popular picnic holiday of the year.
This idea of eating outdoors from a basket on a blanket is no trend. It has been around for centuries and has taken eaters on a plethora of picturesque adventures. But it wasn’t always a simple act. At first, outdoor dining began in grand style. Lavish entertaining in lavish settings. In the 1700’s, there were the hunting after-parties which made glorious outdoor feasts of animals bagged from the day’s sport. Garden gatherings in the 1800’s involved fine china, silverware and fancy dress. Plein air luncheons in the early 1900’s focused on seasonal foods, artistic creativity and exquisite manners. Today, picnics involve technology fueled cooling mechanisms, compartmentalized backpacks and fitted amenities made for details and devices. Needless to say, the desire to picnic has never been lost, but the way we eat outdoors has evolved quite a bit over time.
Nowadays, anything goes when it comes to picnic style and presentation. An impromptu paper bag lunch for two in a city park can be just as engaging as a thoughtfully prepared country basket for six. But just like any activity worth doing, there is a certain art form to a well produced picnic that makes for a more pleasurable experience. The vintage-style picnic favors china plates and real glassware, classic cocktails and linen napkins, and most importantly, homemade food. It is the sort of affair that wraps you up in a long, restful lazy day adventure fueled with time-honored tradition and attention to detail. It discourages anything fast or obtuse- like technology and frenzied time schedules and plastic utensils. It champions a slower, simpler and more relaxing rhythm. The type of experience that not only feeds your appetite but also your senses, your spirit and your sanity. Basically, a vintage-style picnic is a big, long break in your day meant for resting, relaxing and restoring through small details… the time-worn touch of an old plate, the taste of an heirloom recipe, the time-out of technology, and the tune in to your natural surroundings.
Legend loosely states that the word picnic stemmed from the French pique-nique which derives from the action of picking and selecting small spots or things. Originally, pique-niques were more like potlucks, in that all invited guests were asked to contribute a little food or drink for the group to share together. But it was England, in the 19th century, not France who created the picnic in the modern sense that we know it as today. Both a mealtime and a leisure activity, the English made picnicking a deliciously long-term and lengthy event that could last all day and well into the night if done right. They played games, read books, plucked instruments, talked, sang, painted, swam, flew kites, played sports and generally just all around enjoyed themselves while snacking on small plates of assorted foods from wicker hampers and baskets.
In America, prior to the Civil War, there were no lackadaisical, carefree picnic outings. If any outdoor eating occurred before that time period, it was eating en masse – generally a large sociable event where whole communities of people turned out to enjoy a barbeque or a church social or a political rally. The Victorians ushered in more intimate, family-style picnic parties, rambling in close proximity to home, as their appreciation of nature and outdoor enthusiasm bloomed in the late 1800’s. But the rise of the automobile, the building of the U.S. highway system, and the introduction of drive-up motor lodges and nationals parks all encouraged a whole new independence when it came to on-the-go eating as the 20th century began. Suddenly, the English style picnic took hold as Americans began exploring their more easy-to-navigate country. Economical, spontaneous and available to everyone, picnics naturally turned destinations into dining opportunities. All you needed was a basket, a blanket, a small collection of foodstuffs and an adventurous spirit. Outdoor eating euphoria had arrived!
Like any trend that becomes popular, Americans quickly figured out that certain foods made more appropriate fare than others – foods that could be easily made, easily transported and easily served. Fried chicken, salads and devilled eggs topped the favorites list, along with hot dogs, sandwiches, pies, cakes, bread and fruit. The picnic basket spread out before you in this post highlights vintage recipes that capture that same essence of familiarity and practicality, while also providing a well-rounded balance of flavors and tastes.
Ranging from the 1960’s to the 1980’s, these recipes came from a handful of treasured vintage cookbooks. They pair gourmet creations from famous chefs like James Beard with regional favorites from lesser-known sources, like the ladies of the Junior League of Huntsville, Alabama. Covering all matters of taste from sweet to salty, savory to sour, they are considered traditional picnic foods, but each contains an unusual twist in the form of a cooking method or an ingredient pairing that makes them both interesting and innovative. Vintage recipes include Sicilian-Style Marinated Olives, Oven-Fried Chicken, Deviled Eggs, Cheese Straws and Blueberry Tart. Americanos join the party as a refreshing aperitif to toast the season and the stars and our independence day on July 4th. Whether you make all of them at once for your next outing or just focus on a recipe or two to sample and try, you’ll discover that all of these options listed here are steeped in simplicity. Almost all of them can be made a day or two ahead of time in advance, so that your restful day of picnicking doesn’t include you running around the kitchen like a crazed cook.
Americano (serves 1)
- 1 1/2 oz. Campari
- 1 1/2 oz. Sweet Vermouth
- 3 oz. Club Soda
- Ice Cubes
- Twist or Slice of lemon or orange for garnish
- Add the campari and vermouth to an old-fashioned glass.
- Add ice cubes and club soda. Stir to combine.
- Garnish with a slice or twist of lemon or orange.
Marinated Olives, Sicilian Style
(from the Silver Palette Good Times Cookbook, 1985)
- 1 pound Ligurian, Nicoise or Greek Olives or a combination, drained
- 8 cloves garlic, cut lengthwise in half
- Zest of 1/2 orange
- Zest of 1/2 lemon
- 2 tablespoons fennel seeds
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons)
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- Combine olives, garlic, citrus, fennel and rosemary in a large bowl.
- Drizzle with lemon juice and oil.
- Marinate, stirring occasionally at room temperature at least 24 hours.
(from James Beard’s Menus for Entertaining Cookbook, 1965)
- 8 hard boiled eggs, shells removed
- 1 small tin boneless skinless sardines
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped
- Cut the hard-boiled eggs in half and remove the yolks to a small bowl.
- Mash yolks with sardines, onion and parsley.
- Blend with mayonnaise until you reach ideal consistency then fill each egg half.
- Chill in fridge until ready to pack into your picnic basket.
- These can be made up to 24 hours in advance.
* If you don’t have a portable egg carrier, disposable muffin tins make a great alternative.
(adapted From Better Homes & Gardens New Cook Book , 1965 Souvenir Edition)
- 1 lb. chicken cutlets
- 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
- 4 tablespoons herbs de provence
- 1/8 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
- 1/3 cup butter, melted but cooled to room temperature
- 6 cups corn flakes, crushed
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
- Combine the garlic, salt, pepper, herbs, parsley and melted butter in a shallow dish and mix thoroughly.
- In a separate shallow dish add the crushed cornflakes.
- Dredge each piece of chicken on both sides in the butter mixture and then coat them on each side in the cornflakes.
- Place the prepared chicken on a lightly greased cookie sheet and bake for 20 minutes or until chicken is golden brown and crispy.
*Note: This chicken recipe will loose its crunch factor the longer it sits. So if you are picnicking, this should be the last dish you make before packing the picnic basket and heading out the door. That being said, it’s still wonderful hours later or even the next day, but the corn flake coating will have a more breaded consistency rather than a crispy crunch.
Belle’s Star-Spangled Cheese Straws
(from the Huntsville Heritage Cookbook, 1967 Edition)
- 1 lb. New York State sharp cheese (or any sharp cheddar), grated
- 3/4 cup butter
- 2 cups flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper
- smoked paprika for garnish
- Leave both the cheese and the butter out overnight on the counter to soften.
- The next morning, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
- Mix all the ingredients together (except the smoked paprika) in a medium bowl by hand.
- Knead the dough until it turns into a consistency like play-doh.
- Form into a ball shape.
- On a lightly floured pastry cloth, roll the dough out firmly to 1/4 inch thickness with a wooden rolling pin.
- By pressing it into the cloth with the rolling pin, you’ll be able to smooth out any crumbly or wrinkly areas as you work.
- Using a small star shaped cookie cutter, cut out the stars and place them on an ungreased cookie sheet.
- Bake for 12-14 minutes or until lightly golden in color.
- Let stars cool on a rack and dust with smoked paprika just before serving.
Homemade Blueberry Tart
(recipes adapted from the Smitten Kitchen and Martha Stewart)
For the Tart Shell
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 9 tablespoons very cold (or frozen) butter, cut into small pieces
- 1 large egg
- In a large bowl, mix the flour, sugar, salt and cinnamon together.
- Add the chopped butter pieces and blend with a fork until the mixture resembles small bread crumbs in various sizes.
- Add the egg and mix until combined.
- Form the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
- Butter a 9-inch tart pan (the kind with a removable bottom).
- Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured pastry cloth and roll out to a size big enough to accommodate an extra 1/2 inch of dough in diameter when placed in the tart pan.
- Add dough to pan, trim any excess dough beyond the extra 1/2″inch that hangs over the sides.
- Fold the remaining 1/2″ inch of dough back into the tart pan, so that you are reinforcing the side walls with an extra layer of dough.
- Pierce crust all over (bottom and sides) with a fork.
- Place tart pan in freezer for at least 45 minutes.
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
- Remove tart pan from freezer and place directly in oven for 20-25 minutes or until the tart shell turns a soft golden brown.
- Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.
For the Blueberry Filling
- 6 cups fresh blueberries
- 2/3 cup cane sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
- 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- pinch of salt
- In a medium saucepan, bring 1/4 cup water and 1 1/2 cups blueberries to a boil over high heat.
- Reduce heat and let berries simmer, stirring occasionally for about 4 minutes.
- In a small bowl mix the flour with 4 tablespoons of water until smooth and then add to the blueberries in the pan.
- Next, add the lemon juice, sugar, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg.
- Bring to a boil and then reduce heat.
- Let the mixture thicken for about 1 minute.
- Remove from heat and stir in 3 1/2 cups of blueberries.
- Immediately, add this hot blueberry mixture to the tart shell.
- Sprinkle the remaining cup of fresh blueberries across the top of the hot mixture, gently pressing the berries down so that they stick into the hot mixture enough to bind them together.
- Place the tart in the fridge for at least 30 minutes or at most overnight.
Additional Picnic Companions
One of the joys of picnic fare is the ability to snack and nibble on little bits of food at whim throughout the day. Since the original pique-nique days, small has been the favored size and serving proportion. For that purpose, a wooden cutting board filled with fresh fruit, a sampling of cheeses, cured meats, fresh herbs and bread offer an infinite number of little edibles that can be combined in interesting ways with the food options listed above. From chicken baguette sandwiches to cheese and crackers to deviled egg wrapped prosciutto, variety runs the gamut. The picnic board here included rainier cherries, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, goat’s milk gouda, cave-aged cheddar, blueberry stilton, herb stuffed salami, thinly sliced prosciutto, genoa salami, a bouquet of fresh herbs and a French baguette.
Finally, when bellies are full and appetites satisfied, the vintage-style picnic experience celebrates and salutes the pursuit of leisurely activities. There’s no rushing to clean up or clear out once you finish eating. The whole, blissful idea behind a vintage-style picnic is to stay awhile and relax into yourself and your surroundings. One of my most favorite picnic activities is bird watching and tree scouting. I usually tote along a couple of species guides and a pair of binoculars, so that I can identify what’s flying over and growing up around me. Other fun activity suggestions (depending on your setting) include painting, sketching, walking, kite flying, playing cards, reading, talking, napping, swimming, collecting and just appreciating the people and places that share your afternoon.
The world is a beautiful place. Time is a priceless gift. Eating is a ceremonial act. The art of the vintage picnic reminds us of that. Just as it has in the past and will continue to do so in the future. Wherever your picnic adventures take you this summer, I hope they are magical and delicious. Cheers to dining out in nature and cheers to a sparkly 4th of July!
While food is obviously the main attraction in any picnic, the vintage-style picnic places just as much importance on the accessories that go along with it as well – a.k.a. the servingware. While it is true that we may no longer entertain as formally as we did in centuries past, there is something lovely about incorporating some little niceties into your basket in the form of linen napkins, china plates and glass drinkware. These details add an elevated aesthetic to your picnic that reflects the elegant early versions of yesteryear, and really just makes for a nicer overall dining experience. A cocktail sipped from a plastic cup, or a homemade dessert pierced with a plastic fork, is never quite the same experience as using real glass and real flatware. Even James Beard agreed about that point. “Skimp on all the other dishware if you have too – but never on the glassware for your cocktail,” he advised.
In order to achieve a vintage style aesthetic your basket does not need to be made up entirely of vintage servingware, but a few pieces tucked into the overall display will help lend nostalgic charm. This post featured a handwoven picnic basket from the 1930’s, a set of W.H. Grindley Hotelware salad plates (also from the 1930’s) and a handful of embroidered vintage and contemporary linens in various shapes and sizes. As long as you have a coordinating color scheme between all your pieces, your vintage-style picnic will reflect a charming and unique aesthetic all its own even if it includes some modern pieces. Vintage restaurantware dishes in general are a great choice for picnics because they are heavy duty and aren’t quite as fragile as delicate ceramic or porcelain dishes. Salad plates or bread and butter plates are also the perfect size for your small snack needs and aren’t as bulky to pack as dinner sized equivalents. Likewise, vintage tablecloths make ideal picnic blankets thanks to their soft fabrics (all those decades of washing and drying!), variety of sizes and nostalgic designs. These tactile elements also have a fun way of engaging people in conversation too, as the weight of history can literally be felt in the palm of their hands.
Katherine Stolz Barber
Katherine is the chief storyteller and curator of the culinary history blog and shop In The Vintage Kitchen. When she’s not busy digging through research archives or whipping up old recipes, you can find her scouting for vintage treasures and inspiring stories around the country with her husband, Bradley, and their insatiably hungry pup, Indie.