How to Make the Perfect Mashed Potatoes
by Monica Kass Rogers
Of all the beloved dishes on the holiday table, mashed potatoes are beloved-est. Fluffy billows of creamy white, crowned with butter or gravy, they fill the biggest bowlfuls on the sideboard, and sidle up so well to the mains at any classic American feast, vegetarian or meaty.
But strive as we might toward potato perfection, who hasn’t messed up the mashed on at least one occasion? Too wet, too dry, gluey or pasty, mashed potato fails are a holiday heart-breaker. To help you avoid mashed mishaps this year, we reached out to two top Chicago chefs for favorite methods and how-tos toward potato perfection.
Chicago Chefs Matthias Merges, owner of four restaurants and former director of operations for Charlie Trotter’s various ventures, and Michael Sheerin, executive chef at Embeya and, the soon-to-come Packed Dumpling House, had these combined tips to offer. The good news? Perfection is possible. The challenging news? Don’t wait til the last minute! Achieving superlatives like “best” does take time. You’ll need to start your potato process in the morning on feast day for marvelous mashed results.
The Best Mashed Potatoes
Adapted from Matthias Merges, Mike Sheerin
- 15 Idaho potatoes
- Large pot of cold water
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 sticks butter
- 1/3 cup olive oil
- salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
- Wash and rinse 15 medium sized Idaho or Yukon Gold potatoes. Place in pot, cover with water to a depth that’s 1 inch higher than the top of the potatoes. Turn heat to medium only until water begins to steam. Turn heat to medium low.
- Do not boil the water. Simmer potatoes for 2 hours or more until easily pierced with a fork, but not falling apart.
- Remove potatoes from water. Place in warm 325 degree oven for 10 minutes to dry skins.
- In a small saucepan, combine butter, cream and olive oil. Heat until quite hot. Set aside.
- Place peeled potatoes through a ricer into a large pot OR mash potatoes with an old-fashioned masher.
- Using a wooden spoon, slowly stir in hot cream/butter/olive oil mixture, in several batches at a time, working the hot cream mixture into the potatoes until fluffy.
- Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with Mike Sheerin’s Poultry-bone Gravy (recipe in link in main body of story.)
Once you’ve got the basics down, turn your creativity to mashed potato recipes with mix-ins like Chef Alec Sherman’s rustic, skin-on ‘Smashed Potatoes with Sunchokes Roasted Garlic and Baby Spinach’. Sherman, chef de cuisine at Chicago’s Southport & Irving restaurant, grew up in the Midwest and has long loved the simple rusticity of skin-on mashed potatoes. “I enjoy the texture, and it reminds me of home,” says Sherman.
“The four ingredients my family has always used include heavy cream, butter, salt and fresh cracked pepper. But we recently elevated this with one of my favorite ingredients: sunchokes!” Sherman says smashing roasted sunchokes into the hot potatoes with roasted garlic and pureed baby spinach “ has completely changed our mashed potato game: The additions give the finished dish great flavor and a beautifully vibrant green color.”
We love the earthiness of the sunchoke/roasted garlic combo, too. Add it to your holiday table with roasts—vegetarian and meaty. It’s also nice with almost any grilled meat (Sherman serves it at Southport & Irving with a chimichurri-marinated hangar steak and crispy sweetbreads.) The earthy flavor of roast garlic and sunchokes (also known as Jerusalem artichokes), and the bright green shock of the spinach makes this flavorful variation a pretty addition to holiday tables.
In sum? “Cook them slow, mash them hot and warm the cream/butter before mixing in,” says Sheerin.
Smashed Potatoes with Sunchokes, Roasted Garlic & Spinach
- 2 pounds potatoes, washed but unpeeled
- 1 head garlic
- ½ pound sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes)
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
- ½ teaspoon fresh cracked pepper
- 1 ½ cups heavy cream, divided into ½ cup measure and 1 cup measure portions
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 3 cups packed baby spinach
- ice water bath for blanched baby spinach
- additional salt and pepper to taste
- Make potatoes: Place 2 pounds of unpeeled, cleaned, potatoes in cold water. Heat water to just below boiling. Water will be steaming but not moving.
- Cook potatoes in steaming water until fork tender: about 1 1/2 hours.
- Heat oven to 350 degrees F.
- Toss sunchokes in olive oil and salt and pepper. Place on sheet pan.
- While potatoes are cooking on the stovetop, roast sunchokes in oven at 350 until soft.
- Place head of garlic in square of aluminum foil and roast in oven next to sunchokes until soft. Remove garlic from oven and set aside.
- Turn oven down to 325. Remove sunchokes from oven and puree with 1/2 cup cream, using immersion blender, or food processor.
- When fork tender, remove potatoes from water. Place in a warm 325 oven to dry potato skins.
- While potato skins dry, heat second pot of water for blanching spinach, on stovetop to boiling.
- While waiting for spinach water to boil, in a small saucepot, melt butter with remaining cup of cream until hot. Set aside. Blanch spinach in boiling water for two minutes. Using a strainer, remove spinach from water and plunge into ice water. Squeeze out water. Puree spinach using a food processor or immersion blended. Set aside.
- Remove potatoes from oven. Leave skins on. In a large pot, smash potatoes with a potato masher adding small amounts of the hot cream/butter mixture as you go until potatoes are fluffy.
- Add garlic and sunchoke puree and smash more. Fold in pureed spinach.
- Adjust seasoning adding salt and pepper to taste.
And don’t forget the gravy!
For gravy like liquid gold, think about roasting a small turkey a few days before Thanksgiving, saving the meat from the carcass for after-holiday sandwiches, pot pies and casseroles, and using the bones to make Mike Sheerin’s favorite gravy. Enhanced with onion, garlic, white wine, thyme, and loads of mushrooms, this gravy is truly the crowning glory worthy of topping your marvelous mashed.
Liquid Gold Gravy
- Meaty bones from the carcass of one 10 to 12 pound turkey, or, bones from the carcass of two large roasting hens
- 1 head of garlic, cut in half, chopped into pieces
- 1 large onion julienne sliced
- 1 cup white wine
- 12 cups water
- 1 Tbsp butter
- Bunch of fresh thyme
- 1 ½ pounds crimini mushrooms, sliced
- Sea salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
- Small amount of Wondra flour as desired
- Place oven rack in the center. Set oven temperature to 350.
- Break up turkey carcass bones into level layer in large roasting pan. Sprinkle with julienned onion and garlic pieces. Add 1 cup water. Roast bones at 350 for 1 hour.
- Remove bones to a separate bowl. On stovetop, deglaze roasting pan with 1 cup wine. Pour through a strainer. Reserve liquid.
- Return bones to roasting pan. Cover with 12 cups water. Set oven to 325. Roast bones for 3 hours.
- Near the end of cooking time, in a heavy skillet over medium heat, melt butter and cook mushrooms with thyme. Set aside.
- Remove roasting pan from oven. Pour liquid remaining in roasting pan (3 1/2 to 4 cups) into skillet with mushrooms. Cook down for 10 minutes
- Add the wine deglazing liquid you reserved. Simmer for five more minutes. Pour all through a strainer. Discard solids (mushrooms and thyme). Return liquid to sauté pan over medium heat. Whisk in small amount of Wondra flour to thicken to desired consistency. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve over mashed potatoes.
Monica Kass Rogers
Monica is a food-business and lifestyles feature writer & photographer with a penchant for reviving vintage recipes. Building on the “Lost Recipes Found” column she originally launched for the Chicago Tribune, Monica now rediscovers vintage in her blog of the same name Lost Recipes Found and continues to write about and photograph contemporary food nationally for restaurants, hotels and magazines.